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William finnegan surfing
William finnegan surfing










william finnegan surfing

As the years went by, he continued his reluctance to come out of the closet and reveal his fierce devotion to surfing-which ironically is what helped pave his less-traveled path into a career of serious journalism. He has published four previous books on such gritty topics as apartheid in South Africa, a civil war in Mozambique and troubled teens in America at the intersection of poverty and drugs.

william finnegan surfing

As a staff writer at The New Yorker for nearly three decades, he has traveled the world covering political conflicts, racism, neo-nazi gangs, and social injustices with a courageous fly-on-the-wall spirit. Disclaimer here: William (Bill) Finnegan is my first cousin and I have been a true fan throughout his long, distinguished career. That piece is still on many reader's short list as "the best piece of surf writing, ever".

william finnegan surfing

Who would have ever imagined a surfer would win the Pulitzer Prize for a memoir about surfing? Surely no one, unless they have read William Finnegan's latest book, Barbarian Days, A Surfing Life, ( Penguin Press), or his career-changing 1992 two-part New Yorker article, Playing Doc's Games, about a daring league of surfers in San Francisco, led by one particularly extreme surfer known as "Doc".












William finnegan surfing